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Thank you for downloading Poker League Helper from our software portal The contents of the download are original and were not modified in any way. You are downloading Poker League Helper, version 1.0.0.1. Each download we provide is subject to periodical scanning, but we strongly recommend you check the package for viruses on your side before running the installation. Poker League Helper antivirus report This download is virus-free. This file was last analysed by Free Download Manager Lib 17 days ago. Poker League Helper Copyright notice: Pirated Software Hurts Software Developers. Using Poker League Helper Free Download crack, warez, password, serial numbers, torrent, keygen, registration codes, key generators is illegal. The most advanced Poker Odds Calculator on the web. Know your probability of having a winning hand against one or many opponents in Texas Hold'em. Download Poker League Helper for free. 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You can add as many of these as you'd like to at once, and the scans are completed quickly. Results show up in a clear list with all but one of the duplicates checked for deletion. However, if there is a particular version of the file you'd like to keep, you can adjust which copies are deleted. You can also decide whether you want to delete files permanently or just move them to the Recycle Bin for the moment. Cons Cluttered interface: You have to scan through all of the Pro options to find the few features available to free users, which can be both time consuming and frustrating. Bottom Line Duplicate File Finder works smoothly and offers a nice set of features. Even the free version works well and can help you free up a lot of space on your hard drive, as long as you don't mind working around all the Pro options displayed in the interface. From Duplicate File Finder is a free application to find and remove duplicate files. It supports unlimited number of files, folders and drives. 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In our 2015 review of the top free duplicate file removers, we found 9 programs we could recommend with the best of these as good as any commercial product. Export list of duplicates to HTML, CSV, TXT. Reply by liona123 on October 15, 2016 I have recently used a program called Duplicate Files Deleter & i am so happy with the results that this particular program does. I have more than 50 GB of duplicate files in my computer and i was going crazy with the hard disk space that was being consumed and thanks to the 'Duplicate Files Deleter' where i don't need to search each & every file to delete. Duplicate Files Deleter did the job for me within a very short period of time. So no need to google each problem to remove duplicate & unwanted files, just grab the program called Duplicate Files Deleter. Introduction If you often find that you create duplicate files as you rename or use files in another context, or just backup more than you had intended, Duplicate File Detectors help you find and/or delete these duplicates and regain the storage space they previously occupied. Judging from some of the recent comments, it would appear that some cautions should be noted before using this type of software. One might also note that with the cost per gigabyte rapidly decreasing, redundancy is no longer such a bad thing. Don't ever just blindly run the program, find all the duplicates and then click 'remove'. This can be disastrous in the sense that even though filenames are the same, the content is sometimes different. For example, you may have multiple icons with the same name, but of differing sizes; or you may have a photograph that has been modified when placed in a different folder but retains the same filename. Don't scan too much at once. A complete scan of drive C: would not be smart. However, scanning a few related folders at one time is much more efficient and the results less overwhelming. Despite the best software, human intelligence may still have to be used. It is best, like eating an elephant, to take one bite or one small scan at a time. Rated Products. Incorporated other software you may not need such as BoostSpeed. Other Duplicate File Removers • is fast and easy to use. It also features two specialty searches: Graphics and music. However, these functions are now limited in the free version. • is fast and easy to use, does a credible job and it has enough options to satisfy most users. • is fast and easy to use and does a credible job and it has enough options to satisfy most users. • is yet another option. It is fast and easy to use, does a credible job and it has plenty of options. Editor This software category is in need of an editor. If you would like to give something back to the freeware community by taking it over, check out for more details. You can then contact us from that page. Please rate this article. Pictures is the only thing I do not use searchmyfiles for. I use VisiPics that compares the pictures visually too and has a slider to adjust how much the searcher should be strict or loose about his choices, that can range from choosing pictures that have a lot of the same background color (like all pictures that have a lot of white or a lot of black) to pictures that must be completely identical with each other. Recolored pictures can be found as duplicates too. Playing with the slider needs a bit of testing, but it is the best program I know of. Search my files lack a simple but useful function -- to search files in the same name, or same size, etc. It more focus on content comparison, maybe based on MD5 indexing first. However, sometimes two txt document are almost same, 1 emtpy line would create different md5. Duplicate cleaner free and double killer supports name and size match. Glary utilities also has duplicate clean function, however, I am not sure it does content check. Of course, we can do a standard search using search my files, then sort the list by name or size to find the similar files, apparently it is awkward. I used to use double killer till it started to have problem with my vista. It is a nice one but as the development stops at 2007, I am not sure it works with win7 and later windows, especially 64 bit system. Download.com indicates it supports up to vista, while softonic thinks it supports up to xp. Although this category title focuses on the *removal* of duplicate files, the current reviews would be better described as being for a Duplicate File 'Finder' category. Each review should focus seriously on the removal process, since that is by far the most time-consuming for users' hands-on efforts. In comments for a related article ('A Duplicate File Finder That's Simple To Use And Unbelievably Fast'), Century22 and 11bravo pointed out what may be the single most important feature to anyone facing a large number of duplicates: an automated way to protect from deletion one file in each group of duplicates and then to choose between quick, batch deletion of all duplicates that weren't so protected versus manual deletion of selected duplicates. Note that I'm referring only to true duplicates, for which the minimum requirement is that files be identical in content; it would be desirable to have the added option to require duplication in data such as date and name and perhaps other attributes. Without this combination of automated protection and batch deletion, the user is faced with doing that manually for each group of duplicates, which could take countless hours with a large number of duplicates. The next editor for this software category would do well to add to each program's review a statement of whether the program offers such an automated deletion-with-protection feature, or requires manual selection of each deletion, which is probably more error-prone than a well-designed automated method. Anti-Twin turned out to be what I was looking for. Duplicate Cleaner Free and Auslogics wouldn't do networked drives. I'm not looking to compare audio, video, or family pics. I'm looking to get rid of the 400 copies of plain, old documents that have been created all across my network. We'd been trading core files around with a USB drive. Now we've got a NAS and everybody has their own private copy of every file from the past three years plus their own stuff that all needs to be merged back onto the NAS. I'm OCD, but that's tedious even for me! Pros for Anti-Twin: Works on networked drives Compares by name, content, size, or date or a combination of these Allows a% match. DCF didn't recognize a lot of these files as duplicates because several have been re-saved with nothing more than a carriage-return or a blank space difference. I don't care! Same date, same file name, same basic file size, same file for my purposes. Clearly lists all duplicates in matched groups showing file path/name, date, and size. Allows deletion by directory! After it finds the duplicates, I can check a single folder (like one of the many copies) and it will delete from the copy and leave my original alone. Interface is clean and user-friendly. I was up and running within minutes, maybe even seconds. Intuitive checkboxes. Thank you for this listing of duplicate finding programs, and especially for linking to Anti-Twin. I've spent many blurry-eyed hours comparing files. Now I may actually get this project done before my next birthday. Who is rating those tools? I am amazed that SearchMyFiles has 5 stars with that unusable ugly interface. I tried all those tools and I can say that the best in this list is 'Fast Duplicate File Finder'. It is completely free for '100% Identical files' and 'Similar File Names' modes. Actually I do not see even 'Similar File Names' mode in the other tools - this is very hand if you have My CV.doc, My Cv (1).doc, My Cv 2013.doc named files which is quite common situation. Yes FDFF has some small limitations in the free version - the mode for finding files with similar (not duplicate) content lists just 10 groups (which is even usable), but for the average user like me the free version is more than sufficient. I love Gizmo's freeware, but in my opinion this article is not objective and requires revising. Thank you for the great site though. I just noticed that your version is also outdated - the latest version is 3.7.0.1. I think there is an important item being overlooked in the comparision. Won't affect the selection of Best in Class though. I'm using Windows 7 64bit, and NAS4Free on a Microserver on the home network. I have a lot of files strewn across USB hard drive. A recent external drive failure caused me to get a NAS solution. So this duplicate file finder mechanism is really important for home use with the amount of digital information normal families accumulate. Well, neither 'Duplicate Cleaner Free' or 'Auslogics Duplicate File Finder' will touch the windows share from my NAS server. 'SearchMyFiles' performs flawlessly. So could TSA add network share capable as part of it's tests please. Thanks for the awesome work, and awesome site. 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The screen has several layers: • Outer cover (optional) - Some TVs have a clear layer on the very outside.keep it, it could be useful in another project. • Lenticular lens - This is the hideous outer screen with 1000s of vertical lines. The purpose of the lines is to spread each pixel outward so you can see the screen from the side. It will probably rip apart as you separate the layers. • Fresnel lens - this is the innermost layer - clear with millions of circular ridges on one side. The crown jewel of the TV. Two excellent sources of free rear-projection TVs: 1. Go to the free section on your local Craigslist community, and you'll probably find dozens of massive, usually broken projection TVs being given away. Say Billy has a TV from about 10 years ago, and when it breaks, Billy decide to upgrade to a newer technology. Big-screen TVs usually weigh 200-400 pounds, so all Billy wants is someone to make it disappear. If you have a truck and at least one strong friend, this is a great option especially if you don't like option 2. If your local dump recycles TVs, you may be fortunate enough to find a pile of TVs sitting around there. My dump doesn't allow scavenging, so we just made sure there was no one around, and helped ourselves to the front parts of TVs and scored 3 giant lenses. Once you have your TV screen, peel the layers apart (you may need to cut some tape along the top) and extract the precious Fresnel. Nikon 35mm f/1.8 for FX cameras. The DX lens reviewed here only works on DX cameras. Great for: A fast, light, inexpensive normal lens for Nikon's DX cameras. Use the Lens Correction Tool Tab to address a number of unwanted issues commonly associated with lens distortion. (Compatible with RAW files only). Admire your plunder, and dispose/recycle the TV carcass. Step 2: Build a Frame. The first thing you'll notice about your lens is that it flops around and refuses to stay straight. The lens absolutely must be flat in order to work right, so we need to build a frame. This will also prevent it from being bent or cracked. Note: the ridges on one side of the lens are extremely delicate and scratch effortlessly. A few scratches won't affect performance, but look terrible. Try not to drag the lens against anything. Materials Required: • At least 15 feet of lumber - I recommend 1x2' boards • Plywood or misc. Scrap wood • 20-40 wood screws • Power drill • Tape measure & pencil Holding the Lens The goal here is to secure the lens in a frame. The most elegant way to do this is to cut a groove down the length of each piece of wood, so the lens fits into the slot. By lowering the saw blade on my table saw so it only stuck up about half an inch, I was able to cut perfect grooves down the boards. Cutting the Frame Once you have your grooved beams, you'll need to cut them just long enough to come together with the lens nested into the grooves. Make sure the grooves are all on the inside, and after measuring exactly how long each side should be, cut the sides at 45° angles so the corners look nice. I used a miter to get the precise angles here. Assembly Once the frame pieces are positioned around the lens you can pull everything together. We sandwiched each corner between two pieces of plywood and put screws through all 3 layers, but there are lots of options for this part. It's a little complicated, and the method varies depending on what tools you have available.If you don't have a table saw, there are other ways to make a groove, or you could trap the lens with multiple boards. If you have any kind of workshop you should be able to rig up something. I don't advise screwing directly into the lens though, because it might crack. Once your frame is done, you can move the lens around safely. Now BEFORE you go out and start burning stuff, I must urge you to wear the strongest sun glasses you can find, glacier goggles are better, but nothing short of welding goggles are really going to protect your eyes. The light spots these lenses can produce are literally as bright as the sun. On that note, be extremely careful where you put this lens. If it's sunny out, the thing shouldn't even be left outside.you never know when it might decide to focus and set your house on fire! Once again I am not liable for anything, including forest fires, so use your head. Step 3: Eye Protection!!! This is such a good idea, I decided to make it a whole step. Let me tell you - throughout this project you will spend a lot of time playing with this device, and you'll want to look at the focus a lot to see the results. However, you will find that after a few seconds, spots linger in your vision when you look away. The center of your retina will become more and more desensitized until it starts taking permanent damage. Then you won't be able to see anything. When you're looking at this spot, it may not seem so bright. That is because your eyes are already being desensitized. Thus, you have to wear at very least some dark sunglasses. With welding goggles, you can't really see anything except the focal point, so I recommend glacier glasses (used in mountain climbing so you aren't blinded by the sun reflecting off of ice). Step 4: Measure the Focal Length. Rather than proceed with building the rest of the device, at this point you need to measure your lens' focal length. This is the distance from the lens to the spot of light it will produce. This distance will only be correct when the light rays hitting the lens are parallel to each other, and perpendicular to the lens. In other words, the light has to either be sunlight or two parallel laser beams, and hit the lens dead on. Unless you live at the equator, with the sun straight up, measuring the focal length is actually quite difficult. After a lot of frustration I decided to use lasers. Materials Required: • 2 (or more) laser pointers • A level • Some flat ground • A T-square • A tape measure • A large, rigid screen We want to find the point in space where parallel light beams bending through the lens intersect. This is the focal point, and it will be straight out from the center of the lens. Laser Setup To set up our parallel beams of light, put your two laser pointers on either side of a book or something so that they're parallel. The goal is for the lasers to be perpendicular to the lens, so make sure they're on a level surface. Turn them on and aim the whole setup straight at the lens. Meanwhile, have someone hold the lens straight up, using a T-square to make the lens perfectly vertical. You'll get two weird diffraction patterns on the wall behind the lens. Finding the Focus Now, with your tape measure extending out from the base of the lens, hold your screen up so the two lasers hit it. Move it back and forth until the two spots converge. When they do, see how far from the lens your screen is. This may sound confusing, but the pictures should help. I recommend trying several times, maybe moving the lasers around, so you can see whether your results are consistent. For my lens, the focal length was about 40 inches (about 100cm) which is average for especially large Fresnels. Step 5: Acquire Focusing Lens. Now that you know the focal length of your Fresnel, it's time to get a diverging lens to bend the light into a beam. This will go right at the focal point, so you get as small a beam as possible. Benefits of Creating a Beam: • Objects don't have to be right at the focal point to burst into flames! • The beam can be further manipulated - magnified, reflected, put through a prism, whatever floats your optical boat. • Ridiculously intense light beams are like lasers - they're awesome. Optics Refresher In optics, the strength of a lens is measured by its focal length (stronger lenses have shorter ones). To cancel the converging effect of the Fresnel lens, we need to either diverge the light before it gets to the focal point (use a diverging lens with a negative focal length) or converge it after the light spreads out beyond the focal point (using a converging lenses like a magnifying glass). Diagram 1 When two lenses are far apart, it's useful to think of light in terms of geometry and angles: the focusing lens has to be strong enough that its focal length is small so that the light spreading out from the Fresnel's focal point is completely captured by the second lens. From basic geometry, we know that the second lens has to have at a ratio ratio of diameter to focal length at least as big as the Fresnel lens in order to capture all the light. This means if the second lens has a focal length f B, it has to have a diameter of at least d B = f B ( d A / f A) where d A and f A are the diameter and focal length of your Fresnel (use the larger width since the Fresnel is not a circle). Diagram 2 With a strong enough lens (the one I got had a focal length of 35mm), you put the lens 35mm (or whatever) past the Fresnel's focal length. The light will then be bent inward, forming a beam. Of course, this will only be approximate, so you'll have to move the lens back and forth until you find the correct distance. Optics Applet An excellent resource for basic optics is this I've found. You can't really use it to get real-world numbers, but it's very handy for planning and understanding how lenses interact. Place a 'beam' on the x-axis, then a couple lenses (you can adjust the focal lengths by dragging the little white squares). You can find lenses in lots of random places online, and the closer the focal length is to your measurement, the better. Also, bigger lenses are preferable because giant Fresnels typically don't create a very small focus spot (between 1 and 2 inches wide) so you'll need at least a 2' wide lens to capture all the light. Where I bought my lens: There are other places I'm sure, especially educational sites and the like.but it may be hard to find the exact lens you need. I should also mention that you want a glass lens, plastic simply won't do for this intensity of light. Step 6: Lens Scaffold. Now that we have a set of focusing lenses, we need to devise a scaffold to hold them in place out in front of the Fresnel lens. After a good deal of thought we conclude the easiest way is to use thin (1x1) wooden stakes held together by plywood gussets. Materials Required: • 4 1x1 stakes • Scrap plywood • Woodscrews • Drill, countersink if available • 2x4 plank • 2' hole saw (or larger) • Several right-angle brackets Basic Structure Odds are you're going to do this your own way if you try it, so I won't go into too much detail about the construction. I assembled the sides first (minus the 2x4s) by cutting the 1x1 stakes with a miter saw to get the necessary angles, then cut plywood gussets to hold these together. We used 2 right-angle brackets (inside corners) to attach these gussets to the plywood crosspiece that will eventually hold the lenses. Note: A very important thing here is the orientation of the Fresnel lens. I found out the hard way that when the flat side of the lens is facing the sun, it doesn't work right (but well enough that you might not notice). So make sure the ridges are facing out, away from the scaffold - that means they'll be facing down if you build this with the lens on the ground, as I did. After the sides are completed, two long plywood gussets secure them onto the side of the frame. Since we want the whole device to rotate about its center of gravity (somewhere between the Fresnel and the small lenses), we need a strong beam that passes through that point (hence the 2x4s in the diagram), so we screwed the 2x4s onto the necessary gussets, providing a substantial increase in strength. Finding the Center of Gravity To find the center of gravity of this whole scaffold (it will be along the centerline of the 2x4), you and a friend each grab one of the 2x4s and see where the thing balances. You'll want to choose a point closer to the Fresnel (so the Fresnel wants to hang down) because the lens assembly hasn't been installed yet. Finally, drill 1/4' or 5/8' holes (depending on the carriage bolt in the next step) through the points you choose. Note: when using wood screws in the small wooden stakes, you definitely want to pre-drill/countersink holes, because wood this thin is very easy to crack. Step 7: Support Base. This lens scaffold we now have needs to rotate around so it can aim up at the sun. To accomplish this we came up with a super simple, super sturdy base made from 5 blocks of wood. Materials Required: • One 8 foot 2x4 • Around 8 feet of 2x6 board • 8 medium lag bolts • 2 big lag bolts • 2 carriage bolts and nuts • 6 washers • 2 wood spacers (use the lightening holes you cut out for the scaffold) The Design You can see the basic design from the diagram. The planks are held together with large lag bolts - to use these, drill clearance holes through the first part (as wide as the part of the bolt without threads) and a pilot hole through the second part (not as wide, so the threads can bite into the wood). Then you screw the bolts in with a ratchet. It's very tight, and very strong. A few of these should hold each part together. You'll want to measure the lens scaffold first, then slightly overestimate the width for the base so you can get it between the two supports easily (the spacers will take up the rest of the width). Mount the Lens Scaffold We want to put a couple holes at the top of each support, and insert a suitable collection of a spacer, washers, a nut and carriage bolt (see the diagram). Once the pivot is together, you can use a wrench to tighten the bolts and lock the scaffold in position. Step 8: Lens Mount. Clearly, our death ray is missing something. If you swivel the lens up so it's perpendicular to the sun's rays, you'll just get a spot of bright light on the piece of plywood at the focus. Once you do this (yes, I recommend it - but don't let the thing catch on fire), you'll know just where to put the focusing lens. Materials Required: • 2' PVC expansion joint • Your favorite epoxy • Miter saw or hack saw • Sand paper (60, 150) Lens Tube The easiest way to set up the optics here is to mount the main focusing lens on the end of a tube around 2 inches wide. This will do exactly what does - collimate the light into a smaller beam. In a sense, the entire device is already doing this with the sun's parallel rays, but we want the smallest beam possible. Up until now, I was troubled and lost as to what I would use for this part. What was needed was essentially two tubes inside each other, the inner one allowed to telescope in and out easily, but be able to stay put. Then, while wandering the aisles of Home Depot I found the perfect part: a PVC expansion joint for 2' conduit pipe. It consists of two pipes, the inner one having two o-rings and a lot of silicon lube, allowing it to slide in and out of the outer pipe beautifully. It also happened to be a perfect fit for my 57mm focusing lens. Preparing the Tube This was fairly straight forward - the inner tube had a rim sticking out past the ridge where the lens wanted to sit, so I made quick work of it with a miter saw (a hack saw would work equally well, just take it slow and rotate the tube as you're cutting). After a quick sand, the tube was ready for the lens. Epoxy I rifled through the adhesives toolbox, found something appropriate for both glass and plastic (Duco Cement) and glued down the lens. A day later someone knocked the tube over and the lens popped off, so I decided to use epoxy to seal the lens in. This worked better (the specific epoxy isn't that important, just pile it up around the sides of the lens to keep it in). Note: Since diverging light is entering this lens, we want the least curved side of the lens (assuming your lens isn't symmetrical) facing out so the angle of incidence is lower, minimizing loss of light by reflection. Imagine a stone skipping off a pond versus a stone dropping straight down (which is what we want in this case). Step 9: Installing the Lens Mount. One morning I woke up and found the sun actually out. The past week had been mostly overcast, with almost no sunlight hitting the deck where this project sat. So I ran out, put on my glacier glasses and pulled the tarp off the device. Aiming A simple way to aim at the sun is to rotate the device until its shadows are parallel to the supports on the ground (if the ground is flat). This means the sun is directly forward. Then all you have to do is rotate it so the lens is closer to the sun, and an intense spot of light should form on the lens scaffold. Even in the middle of winter at this latitude, a 1-inch charred spot formed in a few seconds. It wasn't exactly in the center of the plywood beam, meaning the device wasn't facing perfectly towards the sun. Lens Mount I didn't expect the light spot on the plywood to be so small. This meant that the focus was right on the plywood - farther than I expected. And since the lens assembly can only extend forward (towards the Fresnel), I had to recess the tube past the plywood. We accomplished this with a primitive housing made of 2x4 beams and plywood sides. The 2x4s were ripped to a width slightly less than that of the lens tube, so the plywood sides squeezed the tube in place. If you decide to mount the lens this way, be careful not to accidentally crack the tube. But even better, think of a better way to attach it, and make the lens scaffold stick out at least 4 inches past the focal point. Step 10: Testing. Despite it being December 22 nd, winter solstice, the shortest day of the year, I proceeded to test out the completed lens system. But even with the least possible sunlight to work with (several hours before noon, at 37 o latitude, we got a very satisfactory spot of blinding energy at the focus. When the device was aimed so that this spot fell on the secondary lens.nothing happened. Failure Analysis Despite moving the lens tube back and forth through the focal point, no beam of light formed beyond the lens mount. To find out why the light wasn't cooperating, we decided to do a beam visualization by blowing dust to reflect the light. We first used flour, but then switched to water mist (from a sprayer) since it's not as messy. The light funnels into a highly concentrated point, as expected, but then basically fizzes out. If your Fresnel deathray is doing this, most likely the Fresnel lens is backwards and flat side is facing the sun, rather than the ridged side. Getting this right is essential to getting a good beam profile (which we'll see in the next step). Since the secondary lens is convex, i.e. It bends light inward, the incoming light has to be diverging in order to form a straight beam. Since the light from the Fresnel seems to disperse randomly past the focal point, almost no light even entered the secondary lens. Other Fresnel lens devices on the internet demonstrate good beam shapes, such as in. Step 11: OK - Let's Burn Something! Update: at the suggestion of foobaz utne, I flipped the Fresnel lens around so the ridges are facing the sun, and found a dramatic increase in lens performance. The secondary lens still isn't working right, but I was able to upgrade from melting zinc pennies to liquefying solid copper ones and destroying nickels! First Test Inspired by similar Fresnel experiments floating around the net, I decided to try melting a penny. On winter solstice, I found that a zinc penny melts within a minute when held in the focus. Solid copper pennies (from 1982 or earlier) wouldn't melt, but probably would during summer. Copper's melting point is almost 2000 oF compared to Zinc's 790 oF. See the first row of images for these tests. Conclusion Clearly, a giant Fresnel lens with an area of ~1.2m 2 is a powerful asset. Assuming the maximum available solar energy hitting the ground is around 1000W/m 2, this lens could theoretically concentrate 1200W of power into a square centimeter. Of course, at this latitude and time of year, around half of the maximum sunlight is available so this would make an excellent summer project. But even during winter, the fact that I could easily melt solid copper and make a nickel red hot is pretty damn cool. Additional Information There are a good number of websites about the joys of giant Fresnels, namely: • • • • • Other uses Perhaps the most valuable thing you can get out of this instructable is the source for these giant lenses. There are loads of of them heading for landfills, or recycling, or god knows what else, so reclaim these things and put them to use! Note: You may think, as I did, 'Gee, I bet I could make a super efficient solar panel with one of these'. But according to that isn't a very good idea, and could ruin your expensive solar panel. You could certainly power a small heat engine like this though, by trapping all the light in a black container thermally connected to the boiler. A company working on this technology, but using reflectors instead of lenses, is. Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. Special thanks to foobaz utne for solving my problem with the Fresnel lens focusing properly. I hope you enjoyed this project, and I will either update this if I further develop it, or post other solar-related projects in the future. Hello I read with very much attention your search to Know-How! I struggle also with the same problem. As it is: Does a Spot Fresnel lens magnify the incoming Sunpower (1.000 W/m²) by concentrating this power in the burning point?? To test: if you know the surface of te lens, the irradiation of the Sun, After how many seconds it lasts to make 1 liter of water boiling beginning at 20°C. You need 1Kcal to heat up 1 liter water of 20°C to increase with 1°C. So you know the power by testing this. Who can tell me if my thinking is right or completely wrong Kind regards SunCaratcher. @SelenaH5 Please read this page again and again and again until you understand it. The lens focuses a large area of sunlight to a fine point. Whatever is at that point gets very hot, even just air, it starts to glow brightly and start to burn - even metals and glass will melt, concrete burns. This includes you, your hand, your brain if you're that uncautious. This is dangerous stuff. The glow can get as bright as the sun, after all it comes from the sun, and that will damage the eyes of anyone looking at it. You do not want to blind anyone, a school is fir the education of the ignorant, and it's likely someone who's ignorant will ignore or not understand any warnings you put up, Never underestimate the capacity of the human being to be stupid, Health and Safety is designed to plan for these as among the vulnerable. The project may cause other people to try to emulate it without knowing about the need for safety precautions. So, just as a school is unlikely to allow someone to work with thermite, which is well within the capacity of most children to put together, equally it should not allow anyone to do this with a lens larger than 30cm across. Working on this scale is withi one order of magnitude in danger, and that's far too dangerous to be allowed in a school project, sorry. It may not work on a solar panel but it it should enhance the efficiency of the passive solar heater I have been thinking of building to help heat my house. By building a metal frame with soda pop cans stacked inside and a clear front and mounting a lens like this in front of the glass front I should multiply the amount of heat collected from the air flowing past the stack of solar heated aluminum cans. I just realized it would only be in focus a small part of the day since the solar heater box will be mounted on the south wall of my house. Still it shouldn't hurt anything. I might have to make the back of the box out of heaver metal. That was a similar idea that i had. Use fresnel lens to heat metal ffor forging and smelting. No need for coal or wood. Just stick the metal bar under the light for a few seconds and then continue forging. I've heard of parabolic mirrors being turned out of alluminum (lathed.) why? It would be simpler to just take molten metal and pour it on on a spinnin disk. The liquid metal would take a parabolic shape, and you would not need an insanely large lathe to make it. I'm seeing 12 foot mirrors made with an old car motor. I would agree. Molten aluminum poured on a spinning round disc more like a cake tin (perpendicular edges) than a pie tin (angled edges). It would push most the molten metal to the edges and give a curved shape. The speed would still need to be controlled enough to spin the metal to the edges enough to make the curved shape but slow enough not to spin it all to the sides or out of the mold. But a 12 foot parabolic mirror would be easier made from an old satellite dish than spinning molted aluminum. Lol its algoods, it just sounded like an alarming methodology, with the oversimplification on a site full of people ready to follow instructions down to the letter. And yeah i think they are used in certain telescopes or something, mercury mirrors, i think that when you're getting close to 12 feet its trickier to control the depth of the curve precisely via the speed of rotation because of all the stuff to do with the fluid dynamics and inertia and friction and suchlike. Would be fully awesome to use a fluid mirror to reflect energy to heat a boiler that powers a steam turbine that drives a generator that charges a battery which drives the motor for the mirror as well as a surplus charge. I took apart an old projection set about a year ago and just stashed the parts for eventual toy's. The one I had used three CRT's, Three hefty projection lenses and a front surface mirror ( which a friend broke! Lot of other stuff like a blower and hoses used to keep the center tube cool, the screen and lots of other parts of various types. No fresnel in this type. I am looking for things I can do with those monster lenses. I am sure I could put my smart phone in the right spot and have a large screen phone but since I cannot use touch screen that way, the only point would be to make a holder for the phone and perhaps use it to watch streaming movies on the wall in a dark room. ( But then I have HD TV for that too! ) Any other good ideas to use them? I find myself in the same situation! I was lucky in that the RCA I found sitting on the curb awaiting the guys in orange plastic suits had a Fresnel lense. I, as usual, salvaged the whole thing. I held up one of the three projection lens to my wicked lazer (the brand name, believe it or not) and it made the beam much larger, the point now being a perfect circle of light. But, like you, I am sure something really cool can be made from these things. Is there any way to safely get the concave one out of the tube?? I have to say that this is one of the best examples of what I hope for from and instructable! You've done a great job with the explanation of the scope of the project, the theory, learning from mistakes, and a good summary. Really well done step-by-step directions too. I work in a science museum and often need to explain the way that optics affect light - your examples are so well done! Thanks also for the reference link to the Java apple about optics. Keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing this! I have been using welding glasses and now im ordering some of these: im gonna tape a pair to a string on my fresnel and pass the rest out when doing a demo. Also it might work if you use a mylar space emergency blanket taped into a circular construct around the focal point to shield the radiation because of the aluminum just put tape on the back of a space blanket and make it into a circle and beam the light into the center of that. Firstly, I don't have much formal welding training and I can't tell you the specific ratings to look for. What I can tell you is that I used goggles designed for gas welding (ie oxyacetylene), and I still saw a lot of vision spots after staring at the focal point for a little while. It depends a lot on how much exposure you get. If you really want to be able to stare continuously at it, go with something rated for arc welding. Usually you can't see anything through these other than the actual bright spots. The goggles in your link definitely aren't dark enough for that, they're definitely better than nothing. NOTE!!: 1) Not all big boxy televisions are rear-projection! Smaller and especially older ones may simply be CRT (not rear-projection) which means there is no screen, just a metal cathode inside a solid glass tube. On the inside of the front face of the tube is a very thin and very toxic shiny phosphor coating. There is no lens, other than--perhaps--the glass itself. I repeat: what you are looking at--the outermost layer of the display--in a CRT television is the solid glass tube itself. 2) UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES BREAK ANY GLASS IN THE TUBE If you have to break glass or ceramic sealant, you're doing it wrong. The toxic phosphors will flake off and start floating around like dust, it *will* get everywhere. Yttrium (in the red pixels), for one, causes lung disease. Some tubes have a band of metal glued to the tube which looks like it is holding a screen to the tube. They are not. While it is possible to remove it, you will find nothing more behind it than a solid glass seam which is part of the main tube, not a seam holding the tube to a screen. Video lens distortion is either a look you want (fish eye) or something that distracts your audience. The plugin in Essentials 3 Ultimate makes it easy to remove lens distortion so you can focus on what’s important. Whether you’re editing documentaries or sporting events, you want your footage to look good regardless of the camera. Lens Correction makes it effortless; quickly cleaning up wide-angle lens distortion with presets which let you hone in on your desired look. Take a peek at how Lens Correction fixes GoPro wide-angle footage in just a couple of seconds: In this video, they used a where the horizon is at the edge of the frame. We soon run into the problem of video lens distortion. To fix the problem, we first move along the timeline until we find the distortion and compensate for it by simply applying the Lens Correction plugin. Next, we get a better view by using the Fish Eye distortion correction preset which we increase until the distortion is removed. Then we select the Size to Fit for the background to compensate for any missing borders caused by the lens correction process. 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Step 7: If you wish to receive software news and great deals on more SoftwarePromoCodes.com software products, key in your e-mail address to subscribe for our Free Software newsletters, continue shopping or just leave and enjoy your price savings. SoftwarePromoCodes.com doesn't disperse hacked, cracked, key codes, Laplink Gold for Windows 7 serial keys, keygen, license keys, or torrent downloads for Laplink Gold for Windows 7. Unlicensed software is against the law. (Several of the promo codes really need to be specifically inputted upon the check out page that we present you with in order to work correctly and supply you with the discount your looking for.). Full Specifications What's new in version 15.101 Version 15.101 updated for use on Windows 7. General Publisher Publisher web site Release Date January 16, 2014 Date Added January 16, 2014 Version 15.101 Category Category Subcategory Operating Systems Operating Systems Windows XP/Vista/7 Additional Requirements None Download Information File Size 25.63MB File Name LLGWin7_EN.exe Popularity Total Downloads 5,416 Downloads Last Week 4 Pricing License Model Free to try Limitations 30-day trial Price $89.95. Launcher The Launcher allows users to see all available interfaces from one area of an application. This pattern makes it easier for users to quickly navigate to different interfaces without logging out. The pattern consists of two parts, the Launcher Menu and the Launcher Home (optional). Both parts display all available interfaces, with the Home screen also acting as a landing page for additional resources and documentation. The Launcher Menu can be used without the Launcher Home, but the Launcher Home is recommended for any application that has between one and four interfaces available and has a need to provide additional context around functionality of those interface options. The Launcher pattern is NOT meant to be an alternative to displaying. The Launcher Menu should be accessible from the using the Launcher icon detailed in the Design tab. The Launcher Home should be accessible from the Launcher Menu under the “Home” button. Launcher Launcher Menu • Launcher Icon: The “fa-th” icon from the Font Awesome icon library should be used to represent the launcher. Clicking on the icon will open a menu allowing the user to select a different interface to launch. • Menu Items: The menu is triggered by clicking on the launcher icon. The menu displays the available user interfaces. The presentation of this menu may vary. In this example, user interfaces are represented with a label (UI name) and associated icon (optional) however, you could also use a list. The current interface being used should not show up in the menu. Home is optional, but when used should send the user to the Launcher Home. • Selecting: When a user hovers over the UI Name or Icon, both should be highlighted as links, with a button border appearing as well. Clicking the option will launch the selected UI in a new browser window or browser tab, based on the browser preferences of the user. • Tooltip: As a user hovers over the UI Name or Icon, a should be available to explain what the action will do. Launcher Menu Without Icons Launcher Home • The Launcher Home can be used as a landing page between the Login Screen and the main application functionality when multiple interfaces exist. Launcher is an easy-to-use personal shortcut manager that can launch all kinds of files and programs. Drag-and-drop operations are supported when creating shortcuts. Download the Technic Launcher. The Technic Launcher will get you playing your favorite modpacks in no time. Choose from thousands of modpacks and install them with a. Sep 11, 2017. Want to give your Android phone a new look with minimal effort? How about trying out a new launcher? If that sounds like something for you, we've rounded up the very best there is. The Launcher allows users to see all available interfaces from one area of an application. This pattern makes it easier for users to quickly navigate to different interfaces without logging out. The pattern consists of two parts, the Launcher Menu and the Launcher Home (optional). Both parts display all available interfaces,. Dec 03, 2017 GO Launcher-?Customize your stylish phone with free themes & HD wallpapers! It may also be navigated to through a link in the Launcher Menu. • Page Title: Give the page a name that encompasses all interface options. • Description (optional): Welcome users to the application and give a brief description of the menu items presented. • Menu Items: All available interfaces are represented with a label (UI name) and associated icon (optional). No more than four menu items should be displayed using the Launcher Home pattern. • Action Buttons Place an action button under each menu item to allow for launching each user interface. See the section for more information about terminology and wording specific to action labels. • Footer (optional) Provide links to any additional resources associated with the application that may be helpful to the user. Resources in the footer may include documentation, tutorials, guides, etc, and may be organized using vertical separators as needed. Apex Launcher is a launcher for Android that is loaded with interesting features that let you customize your home screen on devices with Ice Cream Sandwich. The features that this app makes available for you include 9 customizable home screens you can rotate between, a dock with enough space for seven icons, infinite scroll anywhere on your device, different transition effects between one screen and another, and the possibility to hide certain elements such as the status bar or even the dock. Besides all that, you can also customize icons and folders, organize apps in different folders following different criteria, and customize gestures to use on the screen. You'll have dozens of features at your disposal for your Android device. Apex Launcher is a good customization tool for your device. It offers many possibilities to customize your mobile phone. It might not be the most elegant launcher you can find, but it is still very functional. Androidauthority.com 15 best Android launcher apps of 2017 840 × 472 - 72k - jpg play.google.com Nova Launcher Prime SALE - Android Apps on Google Play 506 × 900 - 316k androidauthority.com 15 best Android launcher apps of 2017 840 × 472 - 58k - jpg androidpolice.com Modified Pixel Launcher APK enables the Google Now pane and other. 2160 × 1280 - 1427k - png go-launcher-ex.en.upto. GO Launcher EX 2.43 for Android - Download 900 × 1498 - 155k - jpg phandroid.com 10 Best Android Launchers| Phandroid 1605 × 900 - 648k - png androidpolice.com Hands-on with the updated Pixel Launcher, including the new Pixel. 1440 × 2560 - 5120k - png androidcentral.com Microsoft's Arrow Launcher is astonishingly good| Android Central 1600 × 948 - 320k - jpg thenextweb.com The Best Android Launchers You Can Download Today 2172 × 1280 - 769k - jpg androidauthority.com 15 best Android launcher apps of 2017 1778 × 1000 - 53k - jpg hola-launcher.en.uptod. Hola Launcher 3.0.9 for Android - Download 900 × 1600 - 139k - png fake-iphone-5s-launche. Fake IPhone 5S launcher 1.2 for Android - Download 900 × 1582 - 175k - jpg androidcentral.com Best Android Launchers| Android Central 1200 × 900 - 443k - jpg play.google.com One Launcher Pro - Android Apps on Google Play 506 × 900 - 275k cm-launcher.en.softoni. CM Launcher for Android - Download 1600 × 900 - 175k - jpg androidauthority.com Get the new Nexus launcher look with this simple Nova recipe. 840 × 743 - 64k - jpg play.google.com MIUI Launcher - Android Apps on Google Play 506 × 900 - 267k gizmobolt.com Download Nexus Launcher from Android 7 - Leaked 2926 × 2560 - 2226k - jpg cnet.com Customize Android's icons with Nova Launcher - CNET 900 × 534 - 75k - jpg androidauthority.com 15 best Android launcher apps of 2017 840 × 472 - 76k - jpg. |
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